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Below are the "Tips and Tricks" submitted by our
membership. If you have any to submit e-mail us and we
will list them ASAP (after careful scrutiny, of course). These
could
include but is not limited to tool supply, parts substitutions, parts
suppliers, tricks of the trade, etc.
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| New Rudder Pedal Gust Lock (You can make it yourself!)... (Ed Note: This tip is from "Master Seaplane Newsletter Writer" Bruce Hinds of the Northwest Seabee Club. He has a great solution for the rudder pedal gust lock! Thanks Bruce!) Bruce writes: "My aircraft at one time had the rudder stops broken out
because the airplane was parked in a strong tail wind. The
mechanics had cut a hole into the rudder skin to do the repair
and the finish has never been the same. Another bee this past
year on our field was in the shop for an extensive repair for the same
thing, except it was the former and plate on the vertical stabilizer
the hinge mounts to that was damaged. That was a very costly
repair. Locking tail wheel airplanes don't have anything
resisting rudder movement like the springs on the steerable tailwheels. Perhaps you
remember my rudder lock (see below). It's been a few years, but I used
someone else's idea of putting two "pins" on a wire and flag so they go
in the middle rudder hinge. I coated the carriage bolts in a
rubber stuff made for tool handles and drilled the carriage bolts for a
sprinkler marking wire. It's worked great all these
years. But....."
  First Rudder Lock "When I showed this to everyone, I received a story about how a problem that could arise should you forget to remove it! "Not a problem" you say? Well on land you can't taxi without noticing it, that's correct. But as the story goes, and I can see this happening, when parked on a beach, 9 times out of 10, especially on soft beaches you get the airplane in position to go down hill when you park it. So you forget, and power up straight into the water! Try to get that sucker out now! How are your sailing skills without a rudder? I've been looking for alternatives because even as well as this has worked, how do you get it in and out at a dock? And another flaw with my arrangement is when the wind is blowing from behind and the airplane is parked, you can still get some rudder banging unless you have someone hold the pedals while you pull the pins.... Yes it's not perfect and the other situations haven't been much of a problem, but my mind has been looking for a solution. Recently in reading the old newsletters I noticed a "U" shaped bracket they mounted to the battery box with a piece on each end that would attach to small bolts threaded into the inboard ends of the rudder pedals on the copilot's side. Great idea, but I didn't want to put the bracket under my carpet job and I didn't want to pull the pedals out to drill and tap in the bolts. Can't we make this easier? Yes!...  New Generation Rudder Lock "In it's former life this rudder lock (above) was a wardrobe box hanger bar (available from a U-Haul store). Now shortened and painted bright orange with web straps that wrap around the back of the pedals, pop riveted on the ends and snaps in the middle. Can't miss it! Even if you do and you find yourself 'underway' on the bounding mane, you can pop the snaps and you're home free. The only drawback on this is there will be just a little rudder movement, but it can't move much!" |
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| New shock absorber for tail wheels... Members Mike Lush and Brian Robertson from "The Great White North", have invented a new shock for the tail wheel on our Seabees. Works on steerable and locking tail wheels. Evidently the humongous spring was the big hurdle ($$). For a detailed file (PDF) click here! Price is $1975.00 USD. Mike and Don write: "Yes! Finally a shock strut is available for your Seabee. Improved ground handling, and a much better ride for you and your old Seabee, especially on rough runways, is now available. High quality components, plus ease of installation, make this the perfect mod to replace those old rubber pucks. For more information contact Mike Lush (519) 940-8329, or via Email at mrlush@sympatico.ca, or Brian Robinson at brian@v8seabee.com
(Click on images for
full size)
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| More on the Seabee Hydraulic Pump... From Bernie Nolen (melbern1@charter.net), Thanks Bernie! The electrol hydro pump from simuflight (I think he means Prestolite Pump - Steve for the IRSOC) came from the tilt outdrive actuator off a boat. Most of the ski boat runabouts use this to control the tilt and trim of the out drive in an Inboard/Outboard installation. Try the local boat repair shop. |
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Prestolite
Hydraulic Pump...
Seen your info on seabee site re
prestolite pump. I will be using a Parker Oildyne for my experimental
Seabee s/n 1038. I'm down to choosing between two pumps. Prestolite pumps are no longer manufactured so info is
scarce. Pressure is adjustable and I know Prestolite hyc5005 pump delivers 45 cu inches fluid/minute @ 1000
psi. Is it possible you could time your flaps down from 0 to full while
parked? I'd also like your opinion on
whether flaps and gear actuate fast enough. It will help me choose pump.Hi Steve, Response: "Dear Pius,
I'm sorry for getting back to you so late. My prestolite pump works real well. The flaps take about 5 seconds to go down and about 7 seconds to retract. The gear takes a while longer (about 20 seconds to retract and 15 to go down). I haven't seen a Seabee gear retract much faster than that. Not that it is so fast it's just the nature of the beast I suppose. The "valve body" has alot to do with the efficiency of the hydraulics as well but they all seem to work flawlessly if they are maintained well. I have no complaints about the Seabee hydraulic system other than the parts are a little hard to find. If you need someone to work on it, I would recommend Richie Brumm in NY (Seabee Owner and member). He is the hydraulic expert hands down. Please keep me updated and I will include your information on the website for others if you don't mind. Thanks! Steve Mestler for the IRSOC" Re-response: I will keep you posted on Oildyne/Parker pump progress. The electrol is an easy one to work on. As for the Prestolite according to Air-Parts of Lock Haven, it was also used on Aero Commander 112/114, Beech 24/26, Bellanca 17-30 series, Cessna 177 RG, Piper 28,32,34,44. These could be a source for prestolite parts. Thanks. Tamfor Canada Ltd. 9719-63 Avenue Edmonton, Alberta, Canada T6E 0G7 Phone 780-433-9575 Fax 780-439-7057 pius@tamfor.com |
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| Hull Plug
Modification... (This Tip comes from our friend Bruce Hinds out on the west coast. Thanks Bruce!)
Even the professionals
make mistakes, an interesting story in the Kenmore book was about
an annual on a Bee. They delivered it to the owner who wanted it
right away for an event at Whidbey where he moored it for several
hours. The plugs were left out and not noticed. The owner
returned from the event to find his Bee floating upside down. The
story of the recovery is even more amazing. But that's another
story.
I drill a small pilot hole in the bottom, or in this case the top of
the plug and braise or hard solider in a piece of braising rod.
Bend a hook in the end so it will fit though the hole, then when you
push it up in the hole all you have to do is hook it inside and pull
the bend a little bit wider.
This has worked great, they're easy to see hanging down and you always
know where they are."(Ed Note: Thanks Bruce! I would like to say I never forgot my plugs but I can't! Steve for the IRSOC) |
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| CHECK YOUR TAIL-WHEEL MICROSWITCH!!... This anonymous member had a little "incident" with his Seabee that each member should be aware of...okay, it's me. You happy now! Read about it here. Your tail wheel microswitch could ruin your whole day! Steve for the IRSOC Thanks to Gerry Belcher up in Penn Yan (PEO), N.Y. for helping me fix it! |
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| Hydraulic
Pump Plug Covers... To
prevent a TOTAL hydraulic failure and the embarrasment of landing with
the gear up on a runway or worse with the wheels down on the water,
make sure your Electrol Hydraulic Pump (the manually operated one) has
the plug covers installed. Some covers have rivets driven in from the
pump side so that the head just touch the plugs when the covers are
tightened so that the plugs will remain in place regardless of plug
integrity. See a rough
sketch here and check it out on your airplane TOMORROW!! The
aluminum plates are about 1/8" thick and the screws are #8 or #10
machine
Phillister heads that are safetied together in pairs. The plate on the
aft side of the pump body may be made as one piece but still has four
(4) screws in it for security.
Caution: If your pump body is not already drilled out for the plate screws (#8 or #10 Phillister Head) be very careful about the drill depth as there are numerous cavities and passageways that are not too far from the surface of the pump body! Mine are about 1/4" deep, that's all! Use a bottoming tap to prevent the tap from piercing the Pump Body orifices. Steve for the IRSOC |
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| Spark Plug
Helicoil Tool... Skywaytools.com
has a 14mm Spark Plug Thread Repair
Tool Kit for $ 29.99.
N868CB |
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| Window
Rubber insert tool... This tool is required when installing new (or removed) rubber window moulding. See the plans on the Seabee CD (Seabee Newsletter #30A) or download it here. (or order one from Sommer & Maca below-part #: 201-1195) Steve (for the IRSOC) |
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Landing Gear Switches...
I have found a place to get Seabee landing gear switches, and very reasonable too. The part number is; BZ2RQ1-A2.
The store is: H S Electronics
1665
W 33rd Place
Hialeah,
FL 33012-4513
(305) 821-5802
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| Window Rubber Moulding... If you need rubber moulding for your windows, the following is provided by Les Christianson by way of John Haffner. Thanks guys! Company: Sommer & Maca (800) 241-9780 (http://www.somaca.com/DefaultG.asp) Channel: AS-1179, Stock No 101-2206. Lock Rubber: AS-937, Stock No 101-2253 Tool No 201-1195 One roll of channel and one roll of lock rubber should be enough for allwindows and sky light. |
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| Corrosion Proofing... Here is a tip I got from Henry
Ruzakowski. He has been operating his Seabee in salt water for years,
and recommends using LPS-3 to prevent corrosion, it is, in his opinion,
just as effective as Corrosion X or ACF-50 but is less expensive. He
also uses an LPS product called Hard coat for fittings and bolts. He
uses the Corrosion X spraying system to get the LPS into the interior
of the structure. The spray system costs about $400, but that may be a
good investment.
All the best, John Haffner |
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| Seabee Seatbelts (that is...shoulder
harnesses...) Here is the part number for the Davis seat restraints we installed for the rear seats. If anyone wants to use our 337 to duplicate the installation, this is the part they should order. Bob Gould PART NUMBER FDC6400-568-5-080. PLEASE FIND DRAWING ATTACHED. ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL OR EMAIL ME. Davis Aircraft Products Co.,Inc. Thomas Clark email: tclark@davisaircraftproducts.com phone: (631) 563-1500 ext. 126 fax: (631) 563-1117 |
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| Trim Tab Lock... The following clip is from the December 1984 Newsletter from Capt. Richard W. Saunders' and his device should be in every Seabee owners' inflight toolbag. "Another “voice of experience”, Karl
Johnstone, relates that he learned the hard way about the trim tab on
preflighting the airplane. One of the most serious occurrences that the
Seabee can spring on you, and has done so to three owners that I know
of, is trim tab failure in flight. All three were extremely lucky to
have survived. The Elevator Trim Tab Actuating Rod and the Fork are the
culprits. Of the utmost importance on your walk-around inspection, and
whenever you fly in some one else’s ‘Bee – check the play in each trim
tab. No more than 1/4" play should be in the system. Think about this:
if the trim tab becomes free in flight, it’s going to move with the
airflow change. Any movement of either tab is going to cause the
elevators to move to full travel up and down, under the influence of
that big, free-floating trim tab.
Imagine the ship’s
pitch changes when those big elevators are oscillating stop-to-stop.
Now imagine trying to get her safety back to earth in that condition.
It happened to the Judge and to a long-time friend in Texas, who
described it as a miracle that the oscillation of the nose just
starting an upward curve coincided with his being only about 5 feet
above the surface of a lake. Gave new meaning to the term, “We just
dropped in”. The oscillation could have been in the middle of the
downward curve when he was that close to the surface. A footnote to
that incident: his passenger on that flight was his priest, up for his
first plane ride. Divine guidance?
In my tool kit/spare
parts, I keep a bolt, nut and two skin washers together so that if I
find a loose tab while 58K and I are away from home base, I can secure
the bolt/washer arrangement in the slot between trim tab and elevator,
thereby locking the tab to the elevator. It’s like a miniature gust
lock. Go put it together now.
Judge Johnstone’s
incident was probably the same lucky coincidence of the oscillation,
but resulted in a $20,000 repair bill, even though he was able to fly
his tough old bird, the Seabee (Twin), back home after tightly securing
the trim tab. He had “landed” in snow-covered tundra."
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| Seabee O-Rings... This is the list of Seabee O-rings as compiled by Mr. George Mojonnier and Mr. Don Booth back in the 1960's. I know some are different by now with all the "mods" we have but most are still good. If you have an additions, let me know! Thanks. Steve for the IRSOC |
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| Parking Brake...
(Long-time
IRSOC member Bruce Hinds, editor-in-chief of the Seabee Newsletter,sent
this along. Bruce, I can tell you that you are not alone!!
The good news is your parking brake valves must be in pretty good shape! Steve-for the IRSOC) "Someone passed me
a picture recently of an Airbus with all the tires blown due to some
bonehead landing with the parking break set. I have heard of this
before, mostly in small planes and I've wondered how that can
happen. Here's one way:
At Lake Goodwin I was to work the
event on Saturday and didn't want to take a buoy just in case we had a
bunch of folks show up. Besides, if I put it in shallow water I
could walk to the dock. This wasn't something we encouraged due
to some big rocks, but I'd been there several times getting things
ready and knew where most of them were. So, as I taxied in to the
shallows I just figured I'd put the gear down and that would stabilize
the airplane on the bottom and I wouldn't have to anchor. I've
done this before, it works great.
The airplane was mostly
afloat, and there were some waves, so just to make sure it didn't go
anywhere I set the parking brake. Can you see this coming?
The airplane sat fine all day long. When I was ready to leave, I
just powered out. It seemed like I'd snagged a good size rock on
the gear or a wheel was in a hole which stopped my progress, so I
selected the gear up and away I went. There was a pretty good
wind blowing back at the Narrows when I got back and with a
short ground roll I made my taxiway, turned off the runway and
came to a stop. Hmmm, I didn't plan on stopping. But
with a right turn into the strong wind, I just need more
power to taxi... more power... more power? What's going on
here? That's when I realized the brakes were still
set. What a Bone Head!
Seems odd, just that weekend
I'd talked to someone that had put the Cessna 421 8" brakes on his
Seabee. He questioned why the STC was for 6" brakes on an 8"
wheel, and, I'd wondered what it would take to upgrade to the
bigger brakes. Fortunately the 6" Clevelands on the Bee are
sufficient to hold it in place with full power. That's all I
really need!
It would seem silly to have the
parking brake on the landing checklist, but who knows?
Just be careful if you use your brakes while parking in shallow
water.
BH"
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