| Frequently we get
questions from the members that we just don't know how to answer!
Someone, somewhere does though. These are those questions. If you would
like to submit a question, e-mail us
and we will include your e-mail as part of the question. Your answer,
in e-mail form, will automatically be forwarded to Steve and Jim at the
Seabee website and will be posted in the right hand column so that
everyone can benefit or
add to it. Questions and answers will be posted for two months unless
there is significant interest to keep it posted for a longer period of
time. Don't be shy and remember, there are no stupid questions! |
| Questions |
Answers |
Looking for Seabee Anchor Bags... |
None yet... |
Looking for Film (tapes I guess would work too) on any Seabee...Hi Steve, I met with mr Paras last week in Manila, and it looks that we are going to film his Seabee next year. Thanks a lot for your tip! We are also looking for existing filmmaterial of a flying Seabee, preferably a one engine Seabee, without striping. We could then edit this material to make it look like old filmmaterial, and use it in the documentary. If you would know of someone willing to share his filmmaterial, I would be glad to hear! All the best, greetings, Carel Erasmus (e-mail: careldegrote@hotmail.com) |
None yet... |
Looking for Original Fuel Pump Diaphragms... "My name is Tom Danaher and I own SeaBee S/N
150, N191VW. I purchased it in
1959 at Portage, Wisconsin. It is stock throughout. Still flys good with a B8F Franklin. I need
some fuel pump lower diaphragms. I have been making
them from stock neoprene sheet but they begin leaking in 30 or 40
hours. Can you
tell me of any source for these small (about 1-1/2") diaphragms?
Would appreciate your help very much. Thanks.
Tom Danaher TomDanaher@speednet.com |
Answer from Jim Poel...
Hi Tom. Congrats on the new
Bee. The diaphragms that you talk about sound smaller than the ones on
my Bee, but maybe not as I am not near the Bee right now. I bought
up a bunch of old carbs at an auto parts store some years ago and used
the diaphragms out of some of them, but there are probably not many of
those left. I would recommend Rich Brumm, brummrichkaren@aol.com
, who overhauls Franklins and their parts.
Good Luck. Jim |
Looking for Autolite Manuals... Does
any franklin engine owner know where I can locate a parts manual,
overhaul manual, or sevice manual for the autolite distributor used on
the B-9F engine.?
Many Thanks,
Glen
Hyde cell: 214-546-8811 or E-mail: ghyde747@pwhome.com |
None yet... |
Looking for a lost Seabee... HELLO, SOMEWHERE IN THE THE
MIDDLE 1950's THERE WAS A REPUBLIC SEABEE (OR MAYBE TWO) THAT USED
TO GIVE SIGHTSEEING RIDES OUT OF THE CAPTAIN STARN DOCK AT THE
INLET IN ATLANTIC CITY. I WAS ABOUT 8 OR 10 YEARS OLD AT THAT TIME. ANY
INFO ON THAT AIRCRAFT OR ANY PHOTOS? I KNOW I DIDN'T GIVE YOU MUCH
TO GO ON BUT THE IRSOC SEEMS TO BE A PRETTY CLOSE-KNIT GROUP
& MAYBE SOMEONE WILL HAVE A LEAD. THANKS
FOR YOUR TIME.
REGARDS, LOU STRYKER (pooobah) (Contact Steve Mestler at smestler@pbtcomm.net and I will relay the message. Thanks!) |
None yet... |
| Elevator Torque Tube Problem... Both of our torque tube fittings on Bob Gould's elevators
were cracked, so we acquired new used units from a source. After the
fittings were installed we noticed that the left fitting was incorrect.
 This picture of the elevator torque tube
fitting located on the torque tube with the through bolts show
that the four large holes are 90 degrees off from were they should
be. We were assured that this fitting came from a left elevator.
Unfortunately there is not another SeaBee within hundreds of miles for
comparison. Any help would be appreciated.
|
Sort of an answer... I understand that the torque tubes were all drilled by hand. So consequently, no two are the same!! If anyone can shed light on this "urban legend" please let me know! Steve for the IRSOC (smestler@pbtcomm.net) |
|
Strut Quick Disconnect...
Question: Removal of sponson and supports. Hi fellow Seabee'ers: I was wondering if anybody had come up with a quick disconnect to remove the sponson's on a Bee at or close to the wing?? I am trying to figure out how I can share my hanger space with a couple of experimentals to keep my hanger cost down. The sponsons are in the way of the experimentals going under the wing. Also how much work is it to just remove the sponsons at the wing in there normal configuration and put them back on when I go flying?? Thanks in advance! Dan Staton (N950TB) danielstaton@comcast.net |
Jim Poel writes...
Hi Dan. In answer to your strut
removal, I used to share my hangar with another aircraft and would pull
the strut after each flight. I just unbolted the bolt near the wing and
pulled the strut out. It sometimes took a little wiggling, but it slid
out fairly easily. You may try using those ball lock clevis pins that
have the push button release with a washer instead of a bolt to
eliminate undoing a bolt. You can get them on line at http://www.pivotpins.com. Of
course check with an IA for compliance to FAR's and whether you need a
337 or log book entry. Let us know how you make out.
Jim |
| Need Windows... Bob Gould writes:
I have been unsuccessful in finding window plexiglas to fit the SA395NW enlarged rear windows. Does anybody have a source? I am also looking for 3/16" left windshield, and overhead window material that is oversized enough for flush mounting. Maybe you could post this on your Q&A page. Bob |
Answer... Jim Poel answers: HI Bob. I'm not sure which
manufacturer it is, but there is one who will make whatever
shape you want by sending the outline. They will even put in the
amount of bubble. Try Linda Lou (901-365-6611), or Cee Bailey
(323-721-7888), if you haven't already. Let us know how you make out.
Jim |
| Starter for
Lycoming GO-480 engines... Subject: GO-480 Starter I had my starter overhauled 4 years ago because the clutch started to slip excessively when starting a hot engine. This problem showed up over a period of several years. The FAA licensed shop that rebuilt the starter stated that there was a missing clutch disk in the pack and added the additional part. The starter worked fine. Now, I am having major engine work done and an engine shop checked the starter. The clutch slipped at 400 ft-lbf which they stated is substantially over the manufacture’s recommendation. The engine rebuild shop used the correct equipment to check the dynamic slip of the clutch. The engine shop said they do not rebuild these starters because they did not have all of the necessary technical data to ensure compliance with manufacture’s specification. This engine shop seems to be a top-notch engine repair facility. Now the questions, who does a good job overhauling these starters? My crankshaft had a crack on the starter-drive end from the excessive loading from the starter. I spoke the shop that overhauled the starter, and they told me these starters tighten up from use. The lubricant is thrown out from the clutch pack from normal use and the friction increases. This sounds questionable. Can anyone give me advice regarding this statement from the accessory rebuilder, “the clutch normally tightens up from use.” If this is true, then every owner of a GO-480 should periodically remove the starter and check the dynamic friction of the clutch. Regards, CraigSeaBee SN# 871 |
Starter Answer...
Accessories Inc. ( 4123 May Street (316) 946-0701 FAX (316) 946-5801 Email: sales@accessories-inc.com
Clutch set to 325 ft lbs.
Charlie |
| Stainless Steel
Brake Discs... Steve and Jim, I have another question. Out here, stainless disks for the Cleveland brake conversion would be really nice. Cleveland says DON'T USE THEM! (Heat dissipation being the issue) However, there are stainless rotor kits for cars, and they certainly get more braking workouts than a Seabee does. Does anyone have experience with this issue, and has anyone used stainless disks with the Simuflight STC'd conversion? If so, which maker and part number was used? Bob Gould |
Answered the next day!... Jim poel writes: HI Bob, I just spoke with Henry (Ruzakowski). He said he would not recommend SS discs, but rather to use Chrome ones. Cleveland part # 164-10700. If you want to Chrome yours, mill 2 to 3 thousandths off to make room for the chrome. Otherwise you will have trouble fitting them in the calipers. Good Luck, Jim (If anyone knows why you can use SS discs for cars and not airplanes, let me know and I will post the answer here, thanks - Steve for the IRSOC) Another answer from member John Bambey: Re: stainless steel break
discs for |
| I Need a 337 for
this mod... Hey, guys,  (Click on image for full size) Thanks, Bob Gould bob.gould@stanfordalumni.org |
He got it... Bob Gould got his own 337 form approved for the Hand Hole mod. Below is a link to download it if you care to. Congratulations Bob! Steve for the IRSOC Hand Hole 337 form (1.2 MB) |
|
What were the original Seabees
painted with...
Bob Peterman Evergreen Aviation Museum bobpeterman@verizon.netI
am trying to find out the finish on the early production Seabees.
Were they all bare metal or did some have a painted finish? We
are restoring our aircraft and want it to be as close to original
production as possible. I am hoping there were a few painted
versions. If there are photos available I would sure like to
obtain them.
11/3/2005 |
None yet... |
|
Need a data plate...
My question has to do with the location of the manufactures data plate on the Seabee. My mechanic asked me where it was, and I did not know. I remembered that somewhere I had read that it was above the battery box, but both my mechanic and I looked and looked and could not find it. Could you check and let me know just exactly where it is. My airplane is disassembled and it may be on a part that is off now, however I would assume it would be riveted to the biggest piece of the airplane, the fuselage. 8/13/2005 |
None yet... |
|
Looking for propeller or hub...
Hello fellow Seabee person(s), I'm hoping you may have
a
lead for me that would help get my vintage 1947 Seabee airborne again.
I have been grounded by that pesky Airworthiness directive on the
propeller. The blades are good but one clamp has a bit of
corrosion and I need at least a new clamp if not a replacement
propeller. I know many operating Seabees have had engine conversions to
newer Lycoming and other engines. I'm looking for those propellers and
clamps that were taken out of service when those new engines were
installed.
I have a
Franklin 215-B9F (215 HP) engine (standard
stock engine) in good running condition. The Seabee and engine are
completely operational. The prop blades are good as well.
However, the required AD procedure on the prop reveals a very minor
amount of corrosion on one of the propeller CLAMPS. If I
could get a single clamp, that would be perfect.
My clamps and prop blades are off in a prop shop so I can't
go and get all their numbers.
I'm also considering having a clamp made from scratch. I did that with my valve guides and, while I understand that a propeller clamp is much more complex and subject to tremendous stresses, it still might be a possibility. Maybe I can find someone who has done this "owner manufactured part" process..... Oh, yes...... I'm in Santa Cruz, California
I'd certainly appreciate any leads or suggestions you might
have or, if you have a serviceable prop clamp that fits my prop, or, if
you can locate one, we deffinitely can do business!
Thanks for anything you can do!
(831) 427-0836
6/19/2005 |
None yet... |
|
Looking for N6322K...
Hi Jim, Just thought I would tell
you how much I enjoyed reading the excerpt from your book A Plane For
All
Occasions. I will certainly have to buy a copy as I'm sure it
will
bring back some old flying experiences in the lovely beast.
Back in the early 60's a friend asked me to find a Seabee for him. I had flown them earlier out of a small airport (and lake) in Marstons Mills on Cape Cod. I found a beauty (N6322K #546) in Northampton, Mass (near Westover AFB) picked it up for $6000 and flew it back to Nashua, NH. We were both Air Traffic Controllers at Boston Center and I had taught him how to fly... in my J3 Cub. Let me tell you.. it was one heck of job transitioning a student pilot from a J3 to an RC3. The story is too long to tell, but I'm trying to track down the location of 6322K if it's still around. Something like looking up an old girlfriend ;-) I flew that plane all over New England including a landing in Long Island Sound during a sailboat race on a Sunday afternoon. I have checked the FAA records doing an N number search.. and hunted around some Seabee sites but can find no record of the plane. The last time I saw it was when I landed in ALB in a DC-6 in the mid 60's. There it was... tied down on the flight line with its nose on the ground and the tail high in the air. <grin> Just wondering if you have any contacts that could help locate the aircraft... Dave Johnson dbj@comcast.net |
Found it!! Dave Johnson wrote back... I did locate 6322K after a
little research. The gentleman that bought it from me so
many years ago
passed away and the plane has remained in his estate for many
years. From what I gather, his son's do not fly and the
airplane remains hangared at Barnes Airport in Westfield,
Massachusetts. But I'm sure that some day in the not to far
future, someone will rescue the old bird and give
her flight after all these years of waiting.
Keep up the outstanding work...
Best,
Dave
(Note: Also one member (Art Munns) recommended the FAA site to seach for "N-numbers". It works realyy well!) |
| Nose Skins?... Hi Jim. I have had another successful flying season. We currently have over 1040 hours total time on our conversion. I am starting to plan my winter maintenance program. The nose skin on our Bee is showing it's age & I would like to replace it. Randy Komo has a fiberglass overlay for it. Is this the only option, or are the original skins available? Any information on how well the Fiberglass skin works? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. The skin I need is the one above the bow skins (in front of the battery box). Thanks for the help Brian Robinson robinsonblair@look.ca 10/30/2004 |
None yet... |
| Can Cleveland
brakes use the original Master Cylinders?... James Babcock writes: "Quick
question on installing Cleveland brakes on the Seabee; Is it
possible to use the original Republic master cylinders?
|
Jim Poel writes... "No, James. The original Seabee
brake cylinders are low pressure, High volume. Disk brake need High
pressure, low volume."
Jim |
|
Flap actuator bleeding procedure
anyone?...
We had to remove a leaky flap actuator on the right side to install new 'O' rings and we also replaced both hydraulic lines from the wingroot outboard. Despite trying every trick in the book the right flap system acts like it has air in it. If anyone has a specific procedure that they follow to bleed the system, I would appreciate hearing from them.....Glen Latour 9/13/2004 |
None yet... |
|
Here is a very
good question by a Seabee lover...
Hello Gentlemen, I am impressed
with your web site and in an effort to learn some more
about this unusual airplane, I would like to introduce myself and my
company and hopefully make use of some of your vast knowledge of the
Seabee. My name is Bob Meese and I am an engineering consultant
for Munro & Associates, an engineering consulting firm based in
In reading the informative
articles posted on your web site as well as the seabee.info site, I
have learned that the wings were automatically riveted. The
articles go into a little detail about the sequence and some of the
design features that allow it to be automated but I have not seen
anything that describes that automation. I am extremely
interested in knowing more details like:
If
you have any information or can direct me toward any enlightenment it
would be truly appreciated. If getting information requires
joining the Seabee club, I am willing to do that as well. Thanks
in advance
for any assistance.
Regards, Bob Meese Munro & Associates 248-362-5110 ext.302 (Office in (Ed
note: If I get enough information, I will dedicate a page to the
construction history of our beloved Seabee so send in those pictures
and articles!)
5/12/2004 |
None yet... |
| Tail wheel collar
welding... Does anyone know of an approval to
use a modified welded collar on a
steerable tailwheel installation on a Seabee? eagle118@funport.net Jean and John 4/3/2004 |
None yet... |
|
Elevator Trim Lock up...
Craig Woodbury writes... I am having problems with the trim on my seabee, it keeps locking up and I am not sure why, has anyone had any similar problems? Also does anyone know of an easy fix? After pulling all the inspection hatches and removing my headliner, It looks like the cable only comes apart in the tail of the airplane. Thanks for any information in advance. Craig Woodberry 1/5/2004 |
Jim Poel writes... I'm not sure of what the problem is by your description. You are talking about the trim locking up, then about how it comes apart.You might try isolating the locking up part by disconnecting each side component and working each individually. Things that would lock up are usually the gears which may have too much lash. Or, the chain may be catching on something or be too loose on the sprocket. If you isolate the problem to a component and still have a question, let us know and we can go from there. Just rmember that the trim system is just as important a flight control as the rudder. I know that you know this, but an aircraft with a binding trim system should be considered non-airworthy. You cannot overpower the trim on a Seabee. Good Luck, Jim Poel (If anyone has more information on this problem, please let me know so I can post it here! Steve for the IRSOC) Art Munns writes... Steve, I have had the same problem with my trim system and finally determined by disassembly that the trim cable had multiple strands broken internally which were binding and preventing the hand trim crank from rotating. If you read the last news letter by Grant Southerland he mentioned that I have designed a better and safer trim system. Any one interested may call me at home 804-452-3137 or at the office at 804-222-7494 ext. 274 Art Munns Avionics Inspector (A/W) Richmond FSDO Bob Gould (Hawaii) writes... Craig, The output flex shaft that goes to the elevator puts a side load on the gears in the gearbox. If their shafts are not completely clean and lubricated, they will bind with any (and sometimes no) side (up and down) load. Mine had the same problem, and I finally got the bad one working again after putting the gearbox in a drill press and running it for a long time while washing it out with penetrating oil. Lots of gunk came out. It's kind of like the old Mercury outboard stearing swivel. A little bit of rust and dirt gets between the shaft and the bushing and it binds. Tim Sutter put some bearing races on his gearbox, and they seem to work fine. He also added grease fittings, and I want to do the same. Another cause can be a poorly lubricated, rusty, or old chain at either end. The chain will not bend and will lock up if it gets corroded. You can get stainless chains, or just new regular ones and keep them well greased. If you want more info I can get a bit more detailed. Bob |
| UC-1 engines
request... Mr. Roger Glazer writes: Is there an after market installer of larger engines (for the UC-1 Twin Bee)? 7/23/2003 |
Jim Poel writes...
Hi Roger. I
haven't heard of any changes to the original engine configuration on
the twin Bee. You might want to ask one of the owners directly. (Hardy
LeBel for example)
Jim Poel |
| Bilge Pump
paperwork requested... Our co-webmaster, Jim Poel, has a request for anyone having the paperwork (337's, STC, etc) for the bilge pump system on our Seabees. Please advise Jim or Steve if you can help us out. Thanks
a million!
7/28/2003 |
None yet... |
| Seabee Tailwheel
Tire(s)...
I need a tail wheel tire for a Bendix 3 1/8" (10" OD ) wheel. Are there new ones available? What can it be replaced with? Anyone's input would be greatly appreciated. (810)
434-6201
7/15/2003 |
Jim Poel Answers...
To
answer the tail wheel question on the questions page: Desser sells
10.5" x 4" channel tread tires, about $100. Dusters and Sprayers
sells adapter rims, (about $60). Use the original tube. This
combination is easier to get on and off the tailwheel hub and very good
in soft ground as the tire is square. It needs a field approval. Also,
a guy named Russ advertises the whole combination with paper work to
put a 4" tire on your tailwheel. His is over $100 including tire,
tube, and paper work. Either one of these will work well.
Jim |
| Looking for
Electric Hydraulic Pump drawing... Paul Teremy
is looking for the drawings and/or overhaul manual for the Simuflight
(I believe) Electric Hydraulic pump (HYB-5005).
Paul writes: I
need the assembly drawing on the gear pump which is attached to the
"power -pack" ( 12 volt DC motor). I needed to have some
welding done on the gear pump and the welder separated the two
assemblies of the gear pump which has springs, washers and
ball-bearings.
I don't know where these parts go back, so an assembly drawing would be
helpful.
Thanks, Paul 6/20/2003 |
From Bernie
Nolen... The Electrol hydro
pump from Simuflight came from the tilt outdrive actuator off a boat.
Most of the ski boat runabouts use this to control the
tilt and trim of the out drive in an I/O installation. Try
the local boat repair shop.
|
| Bent Wing Floats... Bob Bastin writes, I need some info on people or places that can help smooth a lightly bent pair of floats. 6/5/2003 |
Jim Poel
answers... Depending on where you are, most body shops can do
something like that. The other choice is a good sheet metal man who
will take them apart, pound them out, and put them back together. Jim
|
|
Door Handles...
Greg in Dallas writes, Hey
there, Hi there, Ho there, does any one have a source for the entry
door
handles? There
is a jeep one in JC Whitney, but it doesn't have the interior handle. Thanks, Greg in Dallas PaulaJK5@aol.com 5/27/2003 |
Ralph Buter
writes... I have some door handle hardware available. Let me know what you need and I'll see how I can help. Ralph Buter Bill Lawson (N6201K) writes: If you need Door handles, I have found that WAG AERO has a door handle set Cat. No. H-815.003 that fits and looks similar to the original. Go to WWW.wagaero.com to see it of call 1 800 558-6868 to get a catalog. Bill Lawson writes again: There is a good source for all sorts of handles. www.austinhardware.com The ALH20072 1/2 looks like the same one. Just click on "Handles" and then "L handle locking". Bill Lawson 8/20/2003 |
| Wing Skins... My uncle and I are trying to start
the restoration of 2 Sea Bees, that's why we would like
to know if anyone has some information about "wing skin"
for the Republic SeaBee, or if someone still make it,
or has the pattern to mould it...
Thank
you in advance for your help.Esteban Cuadrado. estebancuadrado@yahoo.com.ar 4/8/2003 |
Jim Poel answers...
Hi Esteban, There may be some wing skins around, but not many. To my knowledge, there is no one who has any method of constructing them either. The common method of wing repair, is to find a damaged wing and use the undamaged skins from it. There are still a pretty good supply of those around. Good luck, Jim Greg writes... Dear Estaban, I am also restoring a bee and am
having the same problem (with wing skins) let me know if you
find
some one and I will do likewise .
Thanks,Greg ? K.C. Ostronik writes... The original alloy metal that was used to make the RC-3 wing skins was 14ST or 2014. There was a Reynolds version: R301W that was apparently used as well. The dies used a 8'X3' steel blanket with the bead former. This original alloy used to manufacture these skins is no longer produced today. The closest alloy produced today is: 2024T3. 2024T3 only has a 6% formation property as apposed to the 15% formation property of 4ST. 2024T3 can not form the beads without cracking. 2024T4 version would have better forming properties; even a heat treatment procedure might work to produce new wing skins. Unfortunately, this will not meet FAA guide lines and thus is not approved without extensive (read very expensive $$) testing procedure. I figured a production run of approximately 50 skins. Each skin would cost about $1,500.00 just to break even. These skins would not be FAA approved. As a note of further interest: the skins come in two different thicknesses, the out board skins were .025 (of which I have 6 to 10 bran new ones) and the inboard skins which are .032 in thickness. Republic used only the .032 skins near the end of production rather than form new .025 skins which were in short supply. Hope this answers some of your questions. Sincerely, K.C. Ostronik #129 Bill Lawson writes:I made a set of press break dies to make ribbed flat pieces when I did my wing extensions. I currently can make them in any length but only up to 24 inches wide in the rib direction. I usually make them out of .032 2024. The trick is getting the spacing exactly right. It would be possible to make them wide enough with the right dies to cover the full wing but some one that is an artist would need to make the smooth part that is the leading edge of the wing and then rivet the ribbed skins to it to form a complete wing skin. I can make some up if you can let me know the sizes. They take a long time to make. the best solution is probably to take an old wing apart. Bill Lawson N6201K Scott Henderson writes:Jim; I saw the questions about wing skins on the web site. We have just begun work to manufacture new wing skins. They are not cheep $1,595 each but they are new and they are made from the original Republic drawings just with modern tooling. Right now we have to have a minimum production order of five skins and availability is about 4-6 weeks. We are also open to the manufacturing of any other original parts as required. Unfortunately they are not cheap once we have to pay for the tooling but they are available. Things are moving fast for us with the opening of the Fallon shop. I am putting together a document package to have a number of keel strips manufactured this year so they should eventually be in stock. Expect new STC's this year, Electric trim system, Landing light kit (yes I know this is an old kit but finally STC'd). We just need to do the flight test and the paper work will be finalized. We have actually flown all th testing the FAA just needs to verify our results. Once I get caught up on things I will be converting a number of our kits installed with a 337 to STC's. My work with the FAA is fairly easy, they like working with an ex-Boeing engineer and I did learn to do paperwork Boeing so the STC's are going to move forward. Scott Henderson Simuflight 2/19/2006 |
| Propeller control
adjustment... Hey there guys, just to let you know I am a aircraft maint engineer (canada) who has been restoring a seabee for an Air Canada pilot (Tom Stockdill) for the past 2 years (part time). I can't remember the serial number of hand but believe it to be around 1000. I've enjoyed working on this remarkable aircraft immensely, and we hope to have it flying in the summer (2003). This aircraft has not flown for 6 years and was in pretty rough shape when we started the re-construction. We had the original Franklin engine re-built, and have completed some upgrades; electronic fuel qty indication, vor, replaced fuses with curcuit breakers, cleveland brakes, eng oil filtration system ect. If you have any information in regards to the rigging of the prop control I would appreciate it as all the info I have on hand is pretty ambiguous. regards James Babcock 3/20/2003 |
Jim Poel
answers... Hello James, congratulations of bringing back another Bee. The Prop control is not that hard to adjust if the prop itself is set up properly from the prop shop. The stop for the prop control, (not the Reverser control), should be set to allow a static rpm of 2300 to 2350. This is done by having the reversing control against it's stop,(full forward), and adjusting the stop bolt for the main prop control. An easy way to do this is to set it high, do a full power run up using the prop control to limit the rpm to 2300, then after shutting down, adjust the stop to the position of the prop control. Once it is set, while running at 1000 rpm, SLOWLY move the reverse control back to full while someone watches from the side. If the clamps are not set properly, the bolt heads on the clamps will hit the valve when in full reverse. If this does happen, it is legal to grind a taper in the bolt head as long as long as you only grind the wrench grip portion, not the tapered shank. During the take off, the rpm will increase to over 2500 (red line) and it should be brought back down a couple of turns to the red line. This is just procedure for every take off. If you have any questions, Let me know. Good Luck! Jim Poel Ralph Buter writes:
I have some info on prop settings. Please give me your fax and I will send them to you. |
| Where is Mr.
Daubenspeck?... We have had a few inquiries on the
whereabouts of Mr. Daubenspeck and his STC's for the Lycoming Engine
modification. If he has passed away, who does the STC's he once had
belong to? Are the STC's usable? If anyone has any information, please
forward it to us and we will list it here. (Some say he was last seen
in the California area.) Thank you all for your input.
Steve, for the IRSOC |
Answers...
Bernie answers, Jack was living in Oregon for a number of years and passed away about a year or two ago...don't know what ever happened with the STC's... (Ed note: His son is in charge of the STC's. He has contacted the IRSOC and is in the process of providing additional information.) 5/12/2004 |
| What are the wing
floats made of... Would
you post on the question and answer site what alloy the wing floats are
made from? I have a set of
floats of Bobby Bastins that I need to de-wrinkle a bit, but they seem
to be heat treated. They are so damn tough that I can't seem to do
anything with them for fear of cracking the aluminum. Possibly if
I disassemble them I could wheel or planish them. Do you know any phone
no. where I might get someone's experience with them on
the other end?
Please & thank you in advance, George Rettberg (Note: I am assuming George means what type of aluminum. i.e: 6061, etc.) Steve for the IRSOC |
Answer #1 from Ralph Buter...
Wing
floats are R-301W .051 skins. They may be hardened because of age.
Heating them somewhat may soften them.
All the best, Ralph Buter
|
|
Longest Trip in a Seabee...
I was wondering what the longest trip anyone has made in a bee and how long it took them? Thank you kindly, Lee Hunphreys 2/3/2003 |
Here they are... Don
Buck says: Contact Henry Chapeskie. He and his dad made a wonderful
northern Canada and Arctic trip. Don't know a lot of details but they
left southern Ontario, were in Inuvik in the Northwest Territories and
returned. Check a map. Thats a loooooooooong trip in a Bee at 100 mph!
Dr. Henry Chapeskie writes: I
assume you are referring to the trip my dad and I had back in 1995
(written up in the ?Nov, 1997 Private Pilot) up to Inuvik and Victoria
Island in the Canadian Arctic. That trip was 6,600 miles in length. It
might be interesting to the readers if it were scanned in from the
Private Pilot magazine - good reading and photos.
Jim Poel (336 NM)-My personal best in my Franklin is 4Hrs, 54min landing with 16 gallons. Kirk Airbase, SC (T73) to Spruce Creek, FL (7FL6). Headwind all the way. Les
I bought a SeaBee in San Antonio,
TX. 4 year ago. I flew it home to Lake Louise Alaska. It took me 4 days
at 105 mile per hour. I really enjoyed that trip. I flew through everything
from extreme winds and rain to beautiful peaceful sunny skies.
Tim Sutter |
| Springs for Tailwheel Up/Down
Lock... Do you know if these springs are available? My
bee came without one. If I just knew the tension specs (lbs) at 8.5 and
12 inches that would sure
help. The spring that I
need is the one
inside the tail that keeps tension on the retracting linkage collar so
that
the gear will remain locked in place if you loose hydraulic pressure. I
do
not have the steerable tailwheel but I think that the spring I need
would
be the same in any case. the spring is probably about 6 inches long and
the
travel is 8.5 inches at the shortest point to 12 inches at the longest
point.
Thanks, Bill Shaver 2/2/2003 |
Answer #1
from Steve Mestler.... Bill, I don't have a spring for you but
I attached a picture of the
one on the Marty B. The steel wire it is made from measures .085". You
could probably make one easy enough. It doesn't
take much to start stretching it out (5-10 pounds). The long
end of the spring goes into the tailwheel linkage. The short
end goes to the airframe bracket in the fuselage. I hope this helps.
Stevefor the IRSOC Answer #2 from Ralph Buter.... Hello Bill, 2/10/2003 |
|
Propeller
for Franklin Engine...
John Atkins asks: I have been corresponding with a gentleman about a Seabee, turns out it has no prop. I see another Seabee on your web site for sale and owner can't get or afford a prop?! Question is, what prop(s) can go on the Seabee with the Franklin model 6A8-215-B8F engine, and what sort of price should one expect to have to pay ? Thanks, John Atkins 2/1/2003 |
Answer #1 from Jim Poel...
A new
Hartzell prop goes for around $15 or $16K. They are a different blade
and clamp design than the older Hartzell props and have no AD. There
are a number of "old design" props that are around for substantially
less money, but have the AD with them. The AD is a 5 year inspection,
and may require new clamps. I don't know if Hartzell still makes the
old clamps or not. The old props work just as well as the
new ones, (some say better due to the hardness of the blades).
Just be sure it passes the AD before you buy one. Also, Hartzell doesn't make the
hydraulic part of the prop anymore, piston, cylinder, valve, etc. They
only make new props down to the jack plate.
The good news is that there are usually a lot of hydraulic
parts around.
Good luck! Jim Poel |
| Continental IO-470
installation... I have been thinking of installing a Continental IO-470 engine in my Seabee. I got the engine overhauled but I need the plate between the crancase and the extension housing. Also, I need to know the STC holder for that installation and if you can tell me someone to contact for information for the installation of the engine or if you know if a Seabee has been modified with the Continental engine and are they still flying or what came of them? Also if you know of any parts for the Continental engine? I hope to hear from you soon. Gudjon V Sigurgeirsson Along the same subject Bjorg Gudjonsson writes... More info needed on IO-470p. How was the pitch controlled on that installation and where was the oil pressure taken to control the prop? Does someone out there have pictures or a drawing of this installation? 12/17/2002 |
Answer #1 from Mike Carey
RE: IO470P It is my understanding that this engine (a pusher) was developed to power the Lane Riviera, which was manufactured by Saia Marchette in Italy in the 1960s and assembled in Texas. About 23 aircraft were imported and about four or five are still flying. I have two of the engines and am attempting to install one in a Bee. Unhappily, there is no STC, so you will have to go "Expermental". There is one plane with this engine installed and it is located at the New Haven McComb Airport (57D) northwest of Port Huron, MI. The owner is Gene Balon and his phone number is: (edited). He is very knowledgable about Bees and has informed me that he would be happy to share his information particularily about the IO470P. So, give him a call. With regard to parts, Continental has everything you need. Regards, Mike Carey |
|
Part
Number for electric Hydraulic Pump...
Do you have a Part # for the electric hydraulic pump for SeaBee gear/flaps? Would appreciate your response on this. Thanks. John Murphy & Dorothy Stringer SeaBee N87570 12/20/2002 |
Answer #1 from Jim
Poel:
Hi, folks, the only thing I have is from the twin bee, and I'm afraid it won't help much. The part number is from a drawing that is 3 ft. by 6 ft. in size, so I can't email you a copy. It is STOL aircraft Drawing # 67-058900. The pump assembly number is 67-058901-1. And the power pack is 67-058902.1. We'll put it on the questions and answers page and see if we get a response. Anyone with the system installed, should be able to help. Jim Answer #2 from Steve Mestler: I had trouble finding the Part/Serial number of my pump. It may be underneath where I can't see it but I found this from the STC# SA 1158 NW paperwork: Prestolite (Website) P/N: HYB-5005 (12v). Steve |
| Cowl
Latches... (Tip from Jay Herte) Does any else have
the problem of the cowl latches falling into the way as you try to
close the cowl?
12/22/2002 |
My
solution is: A drop of super glue on the latch pin stiffens
up the movement just enough to keep them from falling in the way as I
close the cowl. Easy and inexpensive! I use the gap filling super glue and
kicker purchased from local hobby store.
Jay Herte Hi Jay,
That sounds like a good idea. Rich Brumm came up with a little spring that wraps around the pin and holds the latch up. That solved my problem. The springs are hardware store items. Installing them requires cutting the center portion of the latch that holds the pin to make room for the spring, then installing the spring so that it holds the latch up. Jim Poel |
|
Okay, this is an easy one...O-ring size... Does anyone know the size of
the O-ring
that fits the top inside bushing of
the landing gear strut?
Lou Fitzpatrick 1/05/2003 |
Answer #1 from Jim
Poel:
Contact Richie Brumm. He sells the seals you need. brummrichkaren@ aol.com. Jim Answer #2 from Steve Mestler: The part I
show is AN6230-10.
All O-rings are listed here. Some
on the list may have changed. Richie Brumm (above) uses Quad-X
seals and are very good. I re-did our Bee with Richie's seals and they
haven't leaked yet (six years now).
Steve |
